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Post by geoffr on Dec 13, 2023 8:10:24 GMT
Ooooooh! That is possibly the most pornographic thing I've been sent in years! I have so got the tool horn reading that. Thank you John, calipers look like being my birthday present to me and as Retinettes were made in Germany I bet they are metric threads. I have seen something else that uses a similar arrangement but I can’t remember what. I think the device that uses a similarly arrangement is a slide rule. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2023 6:02:01 GMT
I would have thought that the XG-1 and the XG-7 share the same circuit boards, until I remembered that the XG-7 has a less informative viewfinder. These cameras are 43-46 years old, unless you're buying a complete working camera off eBay, to strip it for parts which in my opinion is counter-intuitive due to their electronic complexity and the lack of servicing manual available to the public.
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Post by gray1720 on Dec 25, 2023 21:55:52 GMT
Well, I've ordered some grub screws from Polar Bear Camera, and we shall see how they fit. I make them 1.28mm diameter, and the closest I can find size-wise is M1.2, so it will be a case of try them and see. Thankfully my other Retinettes mostly seem to be OK as the 022 takes grub screws of a tiny 1.1 x 1.44mm.
Oddly, for a camera made in Stuttgart, the screw comes out as 0.05".
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Post by zx9 on Dec 26, 2023 10:54:10 GMT
Well, I've ordered some grub screws from Polar Bear Camera, and we shall see how they fit. I make them 1.28mm diameter, and the closest I can find size-wise is M1.2, so it will be a case of try them and see. Thankfully my other Retinettes mostly seem to be OK as the 022 takes grub screws of a tiny 1.1 x 1.44mm. Oddly, for a camera made in Stuttgart, the screw comes out as 0.05". Ancient machine screws are a rabbit hole when it comes to matching not only size but also pitch and thread angle. I did a restoration of what was essentially a watch makers milling machine (*) which had some very odd fasteners. It turned out to use some Swiss standard from which the BA system was derived, a sort of metric division of the inch, I would not be surprised if older cameras had a lot in common with clocks and watches.
* A Henri Houser vertical and horizontal mill supplied to the Greenwich Arsenal for making time delay fuses.
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Post by gray1720 on Dec 26, 2023 12:32:14 GMT
Well, I've ordered some grub screws from Polar Bear Camera, and we shall see how they fit. I make them 1.28mm diameter, and the closest I can find size-wise is M1.2, so it will be a case of try them and see. Thankfully my other Retinettes mostly seem to be OK as the 022 takes grub screws of a tiny 1.1 x 1.44mm. Oddly, for a camera made in Stuttgart, the screw comes out as 0.05". Ancient machine screws are a rabbit hole when it comes to matching not only size but also pitch and thread angle. I did a restoration of what was essentially a watch makers milling machine (*) which had some very odd fasteners. It turned out to use some Swiss standard from which the BA system was derived, a sort of metric division of the inch, I would not be surprised if older cameras had a lot in common with clocks and watches.
* A Henri Houser vertical and horizontal mill supplied to the Greenwich Arsenal for making time delay fuses.
I'd live to see a picture of that! Yes, that was my thought too, but Chris Sherlock who is the Kodak Retin* guru buys screws online, so I am going to give it a go and see. At Oxford prices, it's only a couple of beers I waste if they don't fit. I'm damned if I am buying a camera just for screws unless I can see its a terminal case, as otherwise I'll just have v the bed to fix that. I do have some spare Kodak screws from a terminal Retina 1BS, but that uses yet another size of grub screw... |
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Post by zx9 on Dec 26, 2023 14:52:06 GMT
* A Henri Houser vertical and horizontal mill supplied to the Greenwich Arsenal for making time delay fuses.
I'd live to see a picture of that! This is what it looked like when Steph found it listed on FreeCycle
And this is how it looks now.
The project kind of stalled at making a motor mount and layshaft, my garage is now full of stuff from the house in Yorkshire which I have been working through for the last year. I can just about get to the lathe now so hopefully I will be back on some of the metalwork projects as I make progress.
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Post by gray1720 on Dec 26, 2023 15:18:59 GMT
Wow, that's taken some fettling! Bravo for taking it on. I've got a lawnmower to re- restore and a hay mower to restore, but between work and my bad cricket habit... I ain't getting anywhere fast!
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Post by zx9 on Dec 26, 2023 15:52:10 GMT
Wow, that's taken some fettling! Bravo for taking it on. I've got a lawnmower to re- restore and a hay mower to restore, but between work and my bad cricket habit... I ain't getting anywhere fast! The mechanism for moving the X plane was entirely missing which I re made using photographs found on the net, I almost got it right but I am missing 5mm or so of travel. I have a cast iron pedestal for it to go on but it stalled before I worked out a layshaft suitable for both vertical and horizontal use. I am looking forward to prototyping using the printer I bought on Black Friday which will be quicker than the progress on the X levers that was a lot of remaking to get even close to what was needed. Talking of printing, did you and Fen ever get the roll film adapter to work?
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Post by gray1720 on Dec 26, 2023 19:41:14 GMT
Dear me, call me Mr Memory, but I'd forgotten your involvement in that.
The prototype worked until the time came to wind the end of the film onto the take-up spool, when the bar sheared off.
Fen made some thicker ones, which need to be filed down to fit, but as a result they fit snugly and survived the roll. I think he has had a few people download the printer template for them.
I've not actually had time to develop the films yet, which should be a laugh, I have about 5 rolls of 120 and 35mm to soup, and I suspect I won't have a clue which cameras they were used in!
I've also still got a roll of colour 120 to get developed, now that Peak have gone mammaries skyward, must get my ordure together to sort that out.
Sorry, I digress.
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Post by zou on Dec 26, 2023 20:20:20 GMT
Hence the obligatory mirror selfie on frame 1 if shooting 35mm. On 120 that's unsustainable, so keep a notebook! I have a Google docs file which stays available offline in which I can update the status of each sheet in my double dark slides. Something similar could be helpful for noting what you took the first couple of pictures of on the roll so you can identify the camera more easily.
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Post by John Farrell on Dec 26, 2023 22:59:08 GMT
On 35mm films, I scratch the camera used on the film leader.
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Post by steveandthedogs on Dec 27, 2023 22:14:42 GMT
Dear me, call me Mr Memory, but I'd forgotten your involvement in that. The prototype worked until the time came to wind the end of the film onto the take-up spool, when the bar sheared off. Fen made some thicker ones, which need to be filed down to fit, but as a result they fit snugly and survived the roll. I think he has had a few people download the printer template for them. I've not actually had time to develop the films yet, which should be a laugh, I have about 5 rolls of 120 and 35mm to soup, and I suspect I won't have a clue which cameras they were used in! I've also still got a roll of colour 120 to get developed, now that Peak have gone mammaries skyward, must get my ordure together to sort that out.
Sorry, I digress. Nik and Trick? Or try it yourself. It's not difficult, just don't use the stuff that comes in squeezy bottles, too floppy. Having said that, I haven't done colour for a few years...
S
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Post by steveandthedogs on Dec 27, 2023 22:16:01 GMT
On 35mm films, I scratch the camera used on the film leader. Good god, has Kodak reintroduced Autographic film?
S
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Post by spinno on Dec 27, 2023 22:19:55 GMT
On 35mm films, I scratch the camera used on the film leader. Good god, has Kodak reintroduced Autographic film?
S
Surely the best way is to get your assistant to make the appropriate note |
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