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Post by zou on Jan 28, 2023 20:55:22 GMT
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Post by John Farrell on Jan 28, 2023 21:10:10 GMT
I record camera used, date developed, developer and temperature, on the sleeve page when I sleeve the negatives. If I've used a variety of lenses with a camera, I note the exposure numbers and lens on a small pad, and the page is filed with the negatives.
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Post by zou on Jan 28, 2023 21:18:20 GMT
My first year or so of 'proper' photography involved me keeping a notebook of each exposure which was then transcribed into the album alongside prints. Really handy but then I got to the stage where I knew what I needed to do to get the results I wanted so I stopped.
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Post by John Farrell on Jan 28, 2023 21:31:09 GMT
When I had a darkroom, I used to record negative details, exposure time and contrast filter used - mainly so I had a reference for other prints. I haven't done that for nearly 20 years...
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Post by andy on Jan 28, 2023 22:28:23 GMT
Where's the fun in that   I'll take the pencil. |
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Post by squeamishossifrage on Jan 29, 2023 6:57:15 GMT
Hah! Neanderthals!  If you used a decent film camera, like a Minolta Dynax/Maxxum 7  , you could get the Data Saver DS-100 and a couple of data cards. When you changed films (which, incidentally, you could do mid-roll, and then return to the next frame when you put it back, helped by the DS-100 and 'wind forward') you could mount the data saver like a lens and dump all the meta-data onto the card in CSV format, readable by just about any text-based PC program. You could also scroll through the data on the large DSLR type screen on the camera back. In fact, as it takes all my Sony-fit lenses, I might just take it for a spin once I get some film! |
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Post by John Farrell on Jan 29, 2023 7:09:49 GMT
Hah! Neanderthals! If you used a decent film camera, like a Minolta Dynax/Maxxum 7 , you could get the Data Saver DS-100 and a couple of data cards. When you changed films (which, incidentally, you could do mid-roll, and then return to the next frame when you put it back, helped by the DS-100 and 'wind forward') you could mount the data saver like a lens and dump all the meta-data onto the card in CSV format, readable by just about any text-based PC program. You could also scroll through the data on the large DSLR type screen on the camera back. In fact, as it takes all my Sony-fit lenses, I might just take it for a spin once I get some film! I avoid cameras with more electronics than a meter. |
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Post by zou on Jan 29, 2023 7:24:38 GMT
Hah! Neanderthals!Ā If you used a decent film camera, like a Minolta Dynax/Maxxum 7 , you could get the Data Saver DS-100 and a couple of data cards. When you changed films (which, incidentally, you could do mid-roll, and then return to the next frame when you put it back, helped by the DS-100 and 'wind forward') you could mount the data saver like a lens and dump all the meta-data onto the card in CSV format, readable by just about any text-based PC program. You could also scroll through the data on the large DSLR type screen on the camera back. In fact, as it takes all my Sony-fit lenses, I might just take it for a spin once I get some film! 'Decent' film cameras are fully manual.  |
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Post by squeamishossifrage on Jan 29, 2023 7:48:14 GMT
'Decent' film cameras are fully manual. OK - I take back the 'Neanderthal' bit. How about 'Antediluvian' instead?  |
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Post by geoffr on Jan 29, 2023 8:34:04 GMT
Hah! Neanderthals! If you used a decent film camera, like a Minolta Dynax/Maxxum 7 , you could get the Data Saver DS-100 and a couple of data cards. When you changed films (which, incidentally, you could do mid-roll, and then return to the next frame when you put it back, helped by the DS-100 and 'wind forward') you could mount the data saver like a lens and dump all the meta-data onto the card in CSV format, readable by just about any text-based PC program. You could also scroll through the data on the large DSLR type screen on the camera back. In fact, as it takes all my Sony-fit lenses, I might just take it for a spin once I get some film! 'Decent' film cameras are fully manual. āDecent film cameras are manualā either it is manual or it isnāt. Not that I agree, a decent film camera is one you choose to use in preference to any other. if you want to get meta data for film, a Nikon F5 records it and stores up to 50 films worth. Unfortunately getting at it requires a long obsolete Sharp device and a hard to find cable. They say itās the thought that counts. |
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Post by kate on Jan 29, 2023 8:45:01 GMT
When I had a darkroom, I used to record negative details, exposure time and contrast filter used - mainly so I had a reference for other prints. I haven't done that for nearly 20 years... Same here. My notes are still perfectly readable 50 years later. PS I also filed a contact sheet with the negatives. |
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Post by nickr on Jan 29, 2023 9:06:25 GMT
'Decent' film cameras are fully manual. āDecent film cameras are manualā either it is manual or it isnāt. Not that I agree, a decent film camera is one you choose to use in preference to any other.Ā if you want to get meta data for film, a Nikon F5 records it and stores up to 50 films worth. Unfortunately getting at it requires a long obsolete Sharp device and a hard to find cable. They say itās the thought that counts. I've several film cameras that can assist in this area. My EOS 1V allows storage of such data and passing it to an obsolete PC (or something even more obsolete with a different cable). My EOS 600 allows virtually anything to be printed on the film with its weird control back, and of course my Autographic Kodaks would allow me to write it on the backing paper of I had a stylus and if autographed film still existed... In my film days, I used to put a sticker on the film with basic details of location, and sometimes more (when I did weddings, for example, camera and film number, and I would keep a separate record of what planned shot was on which film). These days, I don't bother. |
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Post by zou on Jan 29, 2023 9:38:40 GMT
Don't mind me, I was just trolling.  |
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Post by squeamishossifrage on Jan 29, 2023 10:20:18 GMT
'Decent' film cameras are fully manual. I have just remembered that I have one of those - Halina 35X. Just dug it out and reminded myself of its stunning and innovative features :- - a focus ring so stiff you need a wrench to move it - a manually cocked shutter that one invariably forgets to cock, from B to 200 in whole-stop steps - a non-indented aperture ring with a scale on the side of the lens so you can't read it - a viewfinder so small that I had to buy a hot-shoe finder to be able to see what I was photographing Actually, I shouldn't be so scathing. For instance, it has a most excellent red dot on the front, and it says 'Empire Made' on the base plate, although it gives no clue as to which empire it is referring, but I don't think it was the galactic one. Napoleonic, perhaps?  |
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Post by squeamishossifrage on Jan 29, 2023 10:22:30 GMT
Don't mind me, I was just trolling. So am I!  |
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, you could get the Data Saver DS-100 and a couple of data cards. When you changed films (which, incidentally, you could do mid-roll, and then return to the next frame when you put it back, helped by the DS-100 and 'wind forward') you could mount the data saver like a lens and dump all the meta-data onto the card in CSV format, readable by just about any text-based PC program. You could also scroll through the data on the large DSLR type screen on the camera back.
